Brick Construction: Your Technical Industry Guidelines
Foundations & Structural Support
Supporting Brickwork at Base of Wall
→ Proper support of brick veneer begins at the base. Where a brick ledge is present on the foundation, at least two-thirds of the brick thickness must rest on this ledge, with no more than one-third overhang — per code.
→ Where retrofitting brick veneer to older homes or non-masonry bases, angle irons (lintels) may be lag-bolted to poured concrete or block walls to carry the load. Engineering is required for large spans.
→ Hogging out (stepped courses to level brickwork quickly) must be carefully supported and not exceed code overhangs.
→ Insufficient base support leads to long-term settlement and cracking.
Retrofitting Brick Veneer
→ In retrofit applications (where no original brick ledge exists), engineered angle irons are used. These must be lagged securely to the structure and provide continuous support across openings.
→ Framing alignment errors must be corrected — brick veneer cannot “float” off the substrate.
→ Use shims and steel support as required.
→ Structural calculations must account for brick weight (~40 lb/sqft). Unapproved ledger attachment will lead to veneer failure.
Chimney Chase Structural Considerations
→ For chimney chases (non-masonry framed), structural framing must be designed to carry brick weight.
→ Minimum standard: triple studs each side of opening, lagged headers, and if needed, steel angle irons.
→ Improperly framed chases result in veneer leaning, cracking, or full failure.
→ Brick weight for chimneys = thousands of kg — improper support is a common and dangerous fault.
→ Backside support must resist deflection and provide straight plumb surfaces.
Bay Window Support & Flashing
→ Bay window veneers are structurally sensitive. Support must resist brick weight (tons in upper floors) and prevent “sag” or step cracking.
→ Per code, triple framing behind bay + lagged structural members must be used.
→ Above 7:12 roof pitch, angle irons must include welded stops every 2 feet to prevent veneer slip.
→ Through-wall flashing is mandatory above bays; improper or missing flashing leads to inevitable water ingress and rot behind bays.
Flashing & Moisture Management
Base Flashing Installation
▸ Base flashing must be installed at the foundation brick ledge, extending fully to the face of veneer.
▸ Flashing should be installed before masonry begins, under first course.
▸ Must lap under house wrap / wall paper (minimum 2" lap).
▸ Corners must be wrapped and sealed — not stopped at corner.
▸ Weep holes placed directly on top of flashing, every 16–33 inches.
▸ If flashing is not visible at veneer face, it is not code-compliant.
Flashing at Windows & Sills
▸ Head: Through-wall flashing installed behind house wrap with top shingling.
▸ Must extend at least 4” beyond window width.
▸ Laid over angle iron or lintel — weeps required above head flashing.
▸ Sill: Flexible flashing installed under window unit, turned up at sides to form a dam.
▸ Prevents leakage from window joinery or sill bricks into wall cavity.
▸ 15-degree slope minimum for sill brickwork to shed water.
Flashing Around Bay Windows
▸ Must provide structural support (as per earlier section) before flashing is applied.
▸ Flashing must wrap fully around angles — no gaps.
▸ Must extend up into framing cavity — not surface-applied after roof installation.
▸ Through-wall flashing mandatory — with weeps at all exposed horizontal planes.
Chimney Chase Flashing
▸ Cricket flashing must terminate behind brick veneer — not over chimney chase.
▸ Through-wall flashing must be installed behind brick, lapping properly with house wrap.
▸ No brickwork should be unsupported over roof planes — full structural & moisture detailing required.
Weep Devices & Cavity Management
▸ Preferred: open head joints (most effective).
▸ Alternatives: weep tubes, wick ropes, cell vents.
▸ Must be placed at all flashing planes: base, windows, bays, chimneys.
▸ One-inch cavity must be kept clear — use cavity nets/screens to prevent mortar droppings clogging weeps.
▸ Droppings must slope to face of wall — avoid mortar bridging across cavity.
House Wrap / Wall Paper Detailing
▸ Must be installed with proper shingling — laps must face downward.
▸ Must extend down over base flashing.
▸ Tears, punctures, gaps = unacceptable.
▸ Wrap must not stop at window openings — must turn into openings properly and integrate with flashing.
▸ No brick should be laid until wall wrap is 100% watertight.
Mortar & Masonry Techniques
Mortar Types & Applications
Type N mortar: standard for brick veneer — good balance of workability & strength
Type S mortar: for load-bearing masonry or retaining walls
Always match mortar type to application — over-strength mortar in veneer can increase cracking risk
Mortar does not carry structural load in veneer — function is bond & water management
Mixing Ratios & Workability
Standard mix: 3 parts sand : 1 part cementitious material
Bag of mortar = 1 cubic foot volume
Use clean, graded sand — avoid overly fine sands
Water addition: control for correct consistency — not too stiff, not overly wet
Workability critical for full head joints and proper bedding
Full Head Joints
Always aim for full head joints — max water resistance
Speed techniques (clip joints) greatly reduce performance — can increase water passage 8–64x
Proper buttering of brick ends = essential
Particularly important with irregular bricks (tumbled, textured)
Mortar Color & Joint Profiles
Mortar color dramatically affects veneer appearance — choose to complement brick tones
Joint tooling also affects water resistance:
Concave joint: best sealing
V joint: acceptable
Raked/flush joints: higher permeability
Tooling brings fines to surface → seals joint → improves performance
Cold Weather Practice
Below 4°C (40°F) → begin cold weather considerations
Below 0°C (32°F) → use enclosure and heating to maintain temps above freezing for 24 hrs
Never lay on frozen units or frozen mortar
Avoid chemical accelerators (risk of staining & poor bond)
Pre-warming of masonry units possible if required
Hot Weather Practice
Wall surface temps can exceed 60°C (140°F)
Risk: premature setting → poor bond → cracking
Techniques:
Use cool mixing water
Pre-wet wheelbarrows and mortar boards
Avoid working hottest sun angles
Maintain mortar temp below 50°C (120°F) during placement
Saturate brick faces before cleaning to avoid deep etching
Installation Techniques & Workmanship
Proper Wall Tie Installation
⇒ Correct spacing: every 16” vertically, one per stud horizontally
⇒ Use 22-gauge galvanized corrugated ties, nailed with 8d nail
⇒ Nail placement: within ½” of bend — never in top hole
⇒ Tie must extend at least halfway through brick, but set back ⅝” from face to avoid staining
⇒ Never use roofing tacks or plastic-cap nails
Blending Brick Colors
⇒ Always open multiple bands of brick
⇒ Blend from multiple cubes simultaneously — do not use band-by-band
⇒ Prevent color banding and patchy finish
⇒ Check package tag for blending instructions
Preventing Cracks at Openings
⇒ Use horizontal reinforcing wire (Durawall) in 3 courses above openings
⇒ Support lintels with temporary props for 7 days min
⇒ Insert compressible material at angle iron ends to allow for expansion
⇒ Always flash above openings and use weeps
Handling Garage Door Openings
⇒ 3 courses of reinforcing wire recommended
⇒ Support lintel with props for at least 7 days
⇒ Allow for expansion at steel ends
⇒ Use full head joints above openings to resist cracking
Window Sill Slope
⇒ Sills should slope 15° minimum
⇒ Avoid flat or reverse slope (common cause of leakage)
⇒ Flashing under window should form “dam” at sides
⇒ Protect sill during cleaning to avoid etching
Protecting Brick on Site
⇒ Cover brick stacks against rain
⇒ Store off the ground — avoid wicking moisture
⇒ Keep sand dry & covered
⇒ Do not lay wet or frozen bricks
⇒ Rotate stock to prevent uneven moisture content
Cleaning Brickwork Correctly
⇒ Do not use muriatic acid
⇒ Pre-wet wall thoroughly before applying cleaner
⇒ Use correct proprietary cleaning agents
⇒ Avoid pressure washer close to face — prevent streaking/etching
⇒ Mask windows & fixtures
Common Cracking Patterns & Prevention
⇒ Avoid rigid tie-ins at structural frame
⇒ Provide for movement at corners & long runs
⇒ Watch for thermal expansion around steel
⇒ Use proper tie spacing & placement
⇒ Full head joints improve wall integrity
Site Scheduling for Masonry Work
⇒ Masonry should begin only after watertight wrap and flashing are installed
⇒ Avoid starting veneer before roof and key structural work are complete
⇒ Coordinate delivery of brick to prevent on-site storage issues
⇒ Schedule sufficient curing time — especially in cold weather
⇒ Communicate weather limitations to all subcontractors
Cleaning & Finishing
Delivering a Flawless Finish: Professional Cleaning & Final Inspection
The most critical factor in cleaning brickwork is the chemical agent selected.
Never use muriatic acid — it is uncontrolled, inconsistent in strength, and permanently damages many modern brick types.
Only use proprietary cleaners specifically formulated for masonry cleaning — these products are batch-tested for strength and compatibility.
Confirm with the brick supplier which cleaner is approved for the particular brick on site.
Be mindful that certain cleaners can change mortar joint color or affect specialty finishes (matte, glazed, sand-faced bricks).
Using an unapproved cleaner may void both manufacturer warranty and workmanship liability insurance.
Do not mix cleaners — chemical reactions can worsen staining or etching.
Pre-wetting brick is not optional — it is the most effective way to control the depth of chemical penetration. It is also good practise to clean bricks daily with neutral water while busy with project construction.
Brick and mortar are highly porous — if dry, they will absorb the cleaner deep into the wall, resulting in hidden etching, deep staining, or long-term degradation.
The goal of pre-wetting is to create a surface moisture barrier so that cleaner only works on the surface contaminants (mortar smears, dirt).
Apply clean water to the surface multiple times until it is fully saturated — dull areas indicate still-thirsty brick.
Pre-wet particularly aggressively on sun-exposed walls or when ambient temperature is over 24°C — evaporation accelerates.
If interrupted during cleaning (lunch break, tool issue), re-wet before resuming — do not apply cleaner to a drying wall.
Many site issues originate from failure to mask windows, doors, vents, and hardware before cleaning begins.
Proprietary cleaners are highly acidic and can chemically etch glass, pitting the surface permanently — replacement may be required.
Metals (door handles, vents, lights) are especially vulnerable to corrosion — masking is critical for bronze, brass, chrome and unpainted metals.
Use waterproof, chemical-resistant tapes and film coverings — not painter’s tape.
Check masks between stages — splash from upper cleaning can soak lower masks if left too long.
Verify coverage at corners and seams — these are the most common failure points in masking.
Proper cleaning is low-pressure, controlled — not blasting the wall.
High pressure close to the brick face can "write" into the mortar joint, causing light bands, tiger striping, or gouging.
Always test on a sample panel first to check for surface reaction — especially with textured or specialty brick.
Maintain correct dilution ratios — over-strong solutions cause surface attack, under-strong may leave residue.
Spray cleaning in logical sections, top to bottom, and allow proper dwell time for chemical action (per product spec).
Never allow cleaner to dry on the brick — if wall begins drying mid-process, pause and re-wet.
Rinse thoroughly after cleaner dwell — incomplete rinsing is a major source of post-cleaning stains.
After primary cleaning is complete and wall is dry, conduct a full visual inspection from multiple angles and light conditions.
Look for streaking, light patches, missed smears, efflorescence beginning to appear.
Any irregularities should be spot-treated — never reapply full-strength cleaner across large areas without re-wetting.
Check that all weep holes remain open and unblocked after cleaning runoff — blocked weeps can cause future moisture build-up.
Remove all masking and inspect protected surfaces — clean up any overspray or accidental runoff immediately.
Final finish should meet client expectations for visual uniformity — free from streaks, haze, or patchy joint color.
Only after full approval should the brickwork be signed off as “clean and finished.”
Project Planning & Supply Chain
Brick supply is not an "on-demand" material — production schedules must be factored into project plans.
Typical brick lead times range from 4 to 12 weeks, depending on season and demand.
Engage suppliers early, confirm order details, and align delivery with project stages — avoid excess on-site storage.
Order extras — batch color matching can vary. Reordering small quantities later often results in visible variation.
Maintain strong communication with supplier — ask for early notice of any production delays or changes.
Treat masonry crews as valued trade contractors — not "subs".
Onboarding clear scope of work and site expectations builds respect and better quality.
Maintain site cleanliness, scaffold access, and materials delivery schedules to enable masons to work efficiently.
Pay crews promptly — builds loyalty and ensures top tradespeople will prefer to work on your sites.
Good site culture results in better workmanship, lower rework, and faster completion.
Do not begin veneer until all critical prep work is complete:
→ Waterproofing & house wrap fully installed and inspected
→ Flashing in place
→ Roof substantially complete
Coordinate trades to avoid conflicts — e.g., avoid HVAC rough-ins clashing with masonry stages.
Allow for weather — brick and mortar performance is temperature sensitive. Build realistic buffers into the programme.
Monitor progress with periodic site walks — checking for alignment with masonry standards.
Pre-clean and protect surfaces before trades return for final fit-offs.
Insist on high-quality cleaning & finishing (see prior section) — first impressions last.
Conduct final walkthrough with client/project principal to ensure veneer quality exceeds expectations.
Proper final presentation closes the project on a professional note — ensuring referrals and repeat business.
Avoiding Brick Banding/Blending
Avoiding Brick Banding: The Importance of Pallet Blending on Site
While Makoro’s brick manufacturing process ensures a consistently high standard in terms of size, shape, and structural integrity, subtle colour variations between different production batches are an entirely natural outcome of the clay-firing process. Factors such as temperature fluctuations inside the kiln, atmospheric conditions, and minor differences in raw material blends can cause bricks from one batch to exhibit a slightly warmer or cooler tone than those from another. These differences are minimal, often undetectable to the eye during the laying process, but once the wall is complete and sunlight hits it uniformly, those batch shifts can become more noticeable, sometimes appearing as faint horizontal lines or colour bands across the facade.
In practice, these variations translate into what builders receive on site: pallets of bricks that originate from different kiln batches. Even when ordered together, the quantity required for a full project often exceeds a single batch run, meaning the bricks are pulled from several production cycles. Since each pallet is typically packed per batch, laying bricks pallet by pallet, even when they are the same product, can unintentionally group similar tones together in blocks or layers within the wall. This is how unintended visual striping can develop across larger surfaces, even though no issue is visible while building.
To avoid this, we strongly recommend blending bricks systematically during construction. The best approach is to take six bricks at a time from each pallet, alternating consistently between at least four or five pallets throughout the laying process. This method ensures that any natural tonal variations are evenly distributed across the wall, creating a cohesive, uniform appearance with no harsh transitions or lines. It's a straightforward but highly effective way to preserve the intended visual integrity of the brickwork.
This practical tip, though simple in execution, reflects the type of foresight and professionalism that distinguishes quality construction. It’s a small adjustment in site practice that yields a significant improvement in long-term visual appeal.
